Tuesday 13 December 2016

Revive! at Saint Mary Magdalene Church, Rowington Close, London



These are times when art is more important than ever.  And to see the art of nine brilliant contemporary, cutting edge artists in the crypt of a nineteenth century Pre-Raphaelite Anglo-Catholic church is especially cherished.  The church is in the charming neighbourhood of west London called Little Venice.  Surrounded by canals and boats, its moniker "Little Venice" is easy to decipher. There is much I wish to write about the exhibition and the church, but first I would like to introduce my readers to the very charming and beautiful fashionista and gallerist, Olga MacKenzie.  When I met Olga, she was managing the Davies Street Vivienne Westwood store, ordering from Dame Westwood's shows the clothes she knew her high profile clients would want to wear.   Olga, a native of Siberia and I became friends, and she confided to me her dream of curating exhibitions for up and coming artists as well as those artists more established. She has partnered with a colleague to form Galitzine MacKenzie, and their mission statement for this exhibition reads as follows:

"Contemporary artists will create exciting site-specific works to reinvent this intimate space exploring issues such as ritual and spirituality, memory and presence, death and transfiguration and work which challenges the notion of revivalism in post-Brexit Britain and after the Trump victory."



The crypt lies underneath the Church which was build in the mid 1860s with an eye to serving the poor by spreading the Anglo-Catholic Revival, promulgated by the Pre-Raphaelite movement. The charismatic Father Henry Temple West commissioned George Edmund Street to build Saint Mary Magdalene in the middle of the Victorian slums.  Because of the fame of the architect, the church attracted the wealthy, whose smart carriages were at odds with the poverty.  The neighbourhood was known for prostitution and because of the many deaths from venereal disease, the crypt was used to store bodies until they could be properly attended to.



The dedication to Saint Mary Magdalene consciously references the church's desire to reach out and help working class women and prostitutes.  There are visual references to Mary Magdalene throughout the church and the artist Carolyn Barker-Mill has replaced some of the missing stained glass with a likeness of Marilyn Monroe.



Carolyn Barker-Mill's tribute to female power today.




Original church windows



The Russian artist Pavel Pepperstein's  Mary Magdalene on a camel with  slug, inspired by the Door's Riders on the Storm from their album 'L.A. Woman'.  In this context, Mary Magdalene is an empowered Magdalene, in charge of her own sexuality and destiny.



The youngest artist represented is 21 year old Niklas Gustafson, who has created a space that is free to form, scale or linear narrative, where as the curators write "the crypt's spirit and and fragments of its past and future lie co-exist". The video imagery is built up using archival footage of the church with a computer generated sound accompanying the videoscape of organ recitals taking place above the crypt.



Nineteenth century Ecclesiastical robes 



Olga with more Ecclesiastical robes of the period

I had the privilege to experience the site-specific recording by Hans Rosenstrom, which plays on our perception of space.  "I want to expand your own presence," says Rosenstrom.  He has worked with three dancers to produce this audio piece "tracking space and making it physical". One may hear footsteps, the unzipping of jackets, the sounds of taking off down jackets -- for me this sounded like bats flapping in the crypt, while the dancers footsteps sounded like delicate horse prancing.
There are nine artists represented in all.  An experience unlike any I have ever had, I strongly recommend anyone who can to visit. But soon, for it is only up until December 18th.



Little Missy on the canal near the church.  I  recommend the charming Waterway at 54 Formosa Street after viewing the crypt for coffee drinks, craft beers and fresh, tasty repast.

Saturday 6 August 2016




Little Missy's Guide to 
Italian Fashion and The Age of Excess



Venetian Style

In the 14th century, there were as many styles in the country we now call Italy as there were city-states.  It's hard to believe that at this time, the land we now call Italy was the economic capital of the western world, and Venice was its first city-state.  Florence soon became known as a centre for fashion and fashion innovation.  This was later usurped by the French.  Louis XIV and his Hall of Mirrors, the central gallery in the palace of Versailles may be a quintessential Gallic triumph, but the reality was the Italians were the  innovators of mirror technology and the French had to resort to kidnap and extortion to obtain Italian trade secrets and artisans.  For what is fashion without a mirror?  The Italians understood this first, but were slow to understand that fashion could become a lucrative, seasonal industry.  The French were the first to patent the luxury market and until recent times, (in which those pesky Millenials do not appear interested in the latest Louis Vuitton bag), cornered the market.  This is not to say that Italians did not have the best leather accessories and men's woolen fabrics for suits.  Let us not forget Mariano Fortuny and the great Elsa Schiaperelli who reigned years before what we now call Modern Italian fashion.


Capri pants, flats and a chic sweater from 1965

After World War II, the Italian government provided incentives for companies to create and export Italian fashion based on Italy's heritage of culture and art.  It was naturally first based in Florence, but the Roman aristocrats, called la dolce vita, took over and Rome became Italy's fashion centre.
Throwing in a Ferrari and the Coliseum didn't hurt.

The Italians were known for that happy look called "resort wear", swim suits, sandals, scarves, sunglasses and of course Capri pants.  The American bourgeoisie ate it up, la dolce vita on their yachts cruising around the Mediterranean, through movies such as The Barefoot Contessa with Ava Gardner.  Then, Italy got their own bona fide movie stars, Gina Lollobrigada and the ever enduring Sophia Loren.
Sophia Loren in her day
Sophia Loren recently at the Dolce&Gabbana Alta Moda show

Which brings us to today.  Yes, Little Missy has skipped over a lot of Italian fashion industry history, some of which might horrify you, dear readers. We are going straight to Dolce&Gabanna's  four year biannual Alta Moda phenomenon, which occurred this year in Naples,  always just a couple weeks after Haute Couture Week closes in Paris. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have been in business for 31 years.  That's 31 years of Little Missy not buying their clothes because they have never fit my non-Mediterranean tall, long waisted frame, nor my taste which is decidedly more Gallic. Now I suppose I could buy their Alta Moda which would be made to measure, but somehow I don't think this is the Little Missy Style:
One of these dresses is Dolce&Gabbana and one of them is not
Update--Little Missy stands corrected.  The one on the left is Andrew Gn and the one on the right is Gucci. Oh well...you get the idea!

As much as I do not care for Alta Moda, at least if you are going to do the look, wear the designer!  But as the Italians are the past masters of the fashion rip off themselves, I doubt they would care who is ripping them off.  Do the Italians still hold a grudge over the Louis XIV mirror caper? Doubtful.  Fashion wise at least, they are a sunny place for shady characters. Let's review a little Dolce and Gabbana history!
2007 Dolce&Gabbana advertisement

This horrific ad appeared just nine years ago.  It certainly looks like gang rape to me.  These are the designers who managed to avoid going to jail for 18 months on multi-year criminal tax evasions.  Several courts found them guilty and sought heftier three year prison terms but our boys had the media on their side and managed to avoid charges, becoming billionaires in the process.  And that did not stop our boys Domenico and Stefano from mouthing off that they believed in a "classical" family, saying "no [to] chemical children and [a] rented uterus", further claiming that children need "a mother and a father".  That's when they lost the respect of some of their supporters.  Having said that, Little Missy, never a supporter, was not surprised.    Domenico and Stefano would say the grass is blue and the sky is green if it brought their wealthy international flock to their Alta Moda dog and pony shows.  It takes a lot for Little Missy to speak like this but I must speak:
Dolce and Gabbana are douche bags.
Finally, a picture speaks a thousand words.  You can walk by the Dolce&Gabbana store in your city if you are cursed to have one, or just have a look at Little Missy's curated images!

Do you want to look like that?  Do you think it's elegant? Do you think that for one moment this pair ever said , "The most beautiful clothes that can dress a woman are the arms of the man she loves.  But for those who haven't had the fortune of finding this happiness I am here". Of course not. Those are the words of the immortal Yves Saint Laurent. 

Dolce&Gabbana are part of the detritus inflicting our sphere at the moment. If they go away tomorrow it won't be too soon for Little Missy.

Thursday 14 July 2016

Summer Games!
Gender Neutral and Friendly to the Max!
Everyone Can Play!
Here's how it goes...
Jony Ive
or
Johnny Depp

mascara
or
eyeliner

Chinese Food
or
French Food

Beethoven, Bach and Brahms
or
Mozart

Eddie Murphy
or
Mr.Rogers

Ruth Bader Ginsberg
or
Sonia Sotomayor

The Lesser Donald or
The Real Donald


For the record, Little Missy prefers Jony Ive, eyeliner, French food, the Three Bs of classical music, Eddie Murphy, Ruth Bader Ginsberg and Donald Duck.  How about you?  Make up your own game!   It's really fun!  Happy Bastille Day! Love, Little Missy

Friday 8 July 2016

Little Missy Writes an Open Letter to Mark Zuckerberg

Stream it and maybe they'll believe it

First, from CNN:

Facebook CEO Mark Zuckerberg is expressing condolences to the Facebook user who live-streamed the aftermath of a fatal police shooting on Wednesday.

With a post on his personal Facebook page, he is also highlighting the potential power of the company's relatively new live-streaming function.
"Yesterday, a Minnesota woman named Diamond Reynolds went live on Facebook immediately after her fiancé, Philando Castile, had been shot by police in his car. Philando later died from his wounds. In the video, Diamond's 4-year-old daughter is watching from the back seat," Zuckerberg wrote Thursday evening.
"My heart goes out to the Castile family and all the other families who have experienced this kind of tragedy," he wrote. "My thoughts are also with all members of the Facebook community who are deeply troubled by these events."

Dear Mark
On August 23, 2013 in Little Missy Chronicles, I put forth the nomination of "Mark Zuckerberg" for the Nobel Peace Prize.  It is my opinion that you and Facebook have done more for Democracy in the past decade than anyone since the Allied Troops defeated the Axis. Facebook is a force unlike none other in our time.  It is a global form of communication with more than a billion users and it has given its users the power to change their lives and our world---for better or for worse.  I believe in what my dear friend and Nobel Economist Amartya Sen has always said--that without the freedom of the press, there can be no democracy.  You and Facebook have given that freedom to every single one of your users and I thank you, Mark.  Someone was going to do it and it was you and you deserve the Nobel Prize for this achievement.  You also state you want to get Internet into the 70% of the world that has none---that this is your chief goal.  And I applaud you, Mark.  That is the single most important goal in maintaining democracy.
Now Mark, nobody's perfect, least of all Little Missy, and I have seen the inner chamber of Facebook and I am afraid the "members of the Facebook community" look young (under 25) white and Asian and that there are more men than women.  You and your wife have been beyond generous in funding a new wing for San Francisco General Hospital among other gifts.  Why not work on the culture of Facebook so that it is more inclusive?  If anyone can do it, you can.  You have more influence now than anyone I can think of.  In fact, your influence is staggering!  You, the kid in the Palo Alto Mexican restaurant who was just hanging out with your colleagues after you started the Arab Spring! OMG Mark, do more than say you are sorry for the fatal police shooting.  You have so much power, it's unbelievable!  Change the culture of Facebook and you will change the world.  We aren't stupid as you know, Mark!  We will understand your subtle and not so subtle nuances!
Looking forward to the changes
and so is Baby Max!
Yours as always,
Little Missy


Friday 1 July 2016

It's An Aztec Summer! 
Chic Chic Chic!
Summer Royalty!  Our Babies Are Growing Up!
Have an Azec Summer!

Brian Atwood Spring Summer 2016
The Aztecs flourished in what is now Mexico in the 14th, 15th and 16th centuries

Aztec Patterns are hot again!  Some would say they never went out!  When Little Missy was a young teenager, they were in vogue big time!  Elizabeth Taylor wore Aztec print caftans in 1964 while her man, Richard Burton was filming The Night of The Iguana in Puerto Vallarta.  Needless to say, that sleepy little Mexican Pacific outpost was never the same!
Here it is in black and white for you Urban Hipsters!  But really, the Aztecs would never have done it this way and you shouldn't either!  So boring!
Well, now that we have taken care of the trend of the Summer of 2016, let's talk about the Royals!
It would be Princess Diana's 55th birthday today!  What better way to honor her than to post a photograph of how beautifully her kids have turned out!
Wow, they really grew up fast!  William shows real gravitas and is Kate wearing an Aztec inspired print coat?  And doesn't Harry look like just say PARTY and he's there????
My son Michael, right now, at Wimbledon with his friend Christian

And last but def not least, my gorgeous Prince of a son Michael (in the striped shirt) is at Wimbledon right now!  Little Missy is but human, that is to say a proud mother!  Rock those Aztec prints and happy July!
Love Little Missy

Sunday 26 June 2016

Happy Pride Weekend!
Little Missy's Revelations About Life and Fashion
Provocative
Bittersweet Too

On this wonderful and beautiful Northern California weekend we are celebrating pride and diversity, to say nothing of embracing life,  and Little Missy has some thoughts, mostly all joyous.
They are about
Yves Saint Laurent
Hippies
Relationships
and Fashion in general

My brand new Rodarte dress, perfect for my symphony date!

Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte who as you know are the best designers probably in the world and Little Missy's favourites, sent up this dress to me yesterday from LA.  It's all my favourite stuff:  white lace, diaphanous, black lace, embroidered, beyond sexy, beyond reproach, just simply beyond....so I immediately took it out of the box and put it on and voila I was ready for my symphony date. Those Rodarte sisters know how to design a dress!
Brahms First Symphony conducted by Michael Tilson Thomas and The San Francisco Symphony!  Davies Hall is not Disney Hall (in LA) but we can't have everything!  What a wonderful way to celebrate Pride weekend!

Yves Saint Laurent was my favourite designer and then he died.  I will always love him.  He grew up in Algeria and had a house in Morocco and wore caftans from way back.  Was he the original hippie?
Little Missy puts out this theory.
Yves Saint Laurent was the true first hippie
Yves Saint Laurent was beyond a hippie, he was a god!
There were other cool hippies, but no one cooler or more original than this one! He was the first! The best!
And boy do I miss him!

Luckily there are two designers now who feed the most intense personal desire for fantasy, at least mine:
Madonna wore this on aura tout vu look during a recent tour almost non stop!  Little Missy has been wearing on aura tout vu since 1999!  Lucky me!

Rodarte AW 2013

Trust me and I know you do, I could post thousands of images of these designers

I confess, on aura tout vu is now more in the realm of the superstars like Rihanna and Madonna.  But I have had great joy over the years wearing their mind boggling clothes.  The world is finally catching up with these geniuses!
Now we come to Rodarte.  What can I say that I haven't already said?  To have the joy, the pleasure and really the Honor to have worn this design team for the past eleven years is beyond amazing.  Rodarte should have been given the Womenswear Designer of the year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America this past spring.  That is plain and simple. Kate and Laura are simply making the most beautiful clothes in America and they are NOT SELLING OUT OR MOVING TO NEW YORK!  So get over it CFDA and stop rewarding bad behaviour and start rewarding good behaviour and the best design to ever come out of this country!  Did anyone ask Picasso what his business plan was?  OMG!  Did Einstein get a Nobel Prize for not one but two theories that changed our world? NO!  It is crazy!
OMG I said I was going to write about relationships!  How about get a good relationship going with yourself?  Stop and think a moment about what you see.  If it's garbage, change it!  Don't let garbage happen, and what better day than today to say KEEP THAT MORON WHO SHALL REMAIN NAMELESS AWAY FROM THE OVAL OFFICE!  Do everything you can to prevent this from happening!  This is no laughing matter!
Goodbye Bill Cunningham
We have lost a gentle genius.  I was one of the lucky ones to be photographed by Bill Cunningham and I always regarded it as the highest Honor.  Last night I shared with Kate and Laura that just last autumn, Mr. Cunningham asked me to step out and twirl for him in my Rodarte gown.  It was a thrill not easy to describe, and the last time Mr. Cunningham photographed me.  Kate and Laura shared with me their joy that he never missed their shows.
Dear beloved readers, I love you all and wish you all the best this summer.  We just don't know what's around the corner, so live and love and work to your fullest measure.  That's all.  In the moment as always,

Love Little Missy


Thursday 24 March 2016

Who Is My Bae?
One hates to admit vices and other ignorance, but Little Missy is in Full Confession Mode:
I thought Bae was the new nickname for Beyonce.  And why not? She is so cool, she can do no wrong!  I kept reading the word in conjunction with all that was worthy of our respect and I naturally thought...Beyonce....
Jay Z
Here is one of Beyonce's baes.  One expects daughter Blue Ivy to be one of Beyonce's other baes.
Bae, for those of you who like me are living under a rock (or a wisteria draped pergola, the life choice is ALWAYS yours), Bae means:

Before Anyone Else

Like Babe, without the pesky extra b.  It is easier to say Bae.  Try it.  First say, I love you, Babe.  Then say, I love you Bae.  See?  So much easier.  What was once the arbiter of the English language, the Oxford English Dictionary (OED) has been blown out of the water (I was going to say trumped but thought better of it) by the Urban Dictionary.  And they think bae is here to stay.
Kanye's bae
Angelina Jolie's bae
Ellen Degeneres's bae, Portia de Rossi
My bae Isold is two years old today!  Happy birthday, Bae!

So there it is!  Happy Easter to you and your bae!
Love, Little Missy

Learning About Fashion Rodarte Spring Summer 2011, photographed at Stanford University for Electric Fashion, the book I wrote with F...